Goats have earned their reputation as escape artists through thousands of years of evolution in mountain terrain, where finding food meant climbing over, squeezing through, or pushing under whatever obstacles stood in the way. When you bring goats home, that same determination becomes your daily challenge—and your fencing choices determine whether you win or lose.

Woven wire fencing stands out as one of the most effective and economical solutions for containing goats. Also called field fence or stock fence, woven wire creates a physical barrier that goats can't easily defeat. Unlike electric fencing that relies on psychological deterrence, woven wire actually stops goats from going places you don't want them to go.

Understanding Woven Wire Fencing

Woven wire fencing differs from welded wire in a fundamental way that matters for durability. In welded wire, the horizontal and vertical wires are spot-welded together at each intersection point. These welds can break over time, especially when animals push against them or when the metal expands and contracts with temperature changes. Woven wire, by contrast, has its wires wrapped around each other at intersection points—a mechanical connection that flexes with stress rather than fracturing.

This construction method makes woven wire both stronger and more forgiving than welded alternatives. When a goat leans against woven wire, the fence gives slightly and then springs back. When something impacts welded wire, individual welds can pop, creating holes that only grow larger with continued pressure.

Woven wire typically comes in rolls of 100 to 330 feet, with heights ranging from 32 to 60 inches. The wire runs in two directions: horizontal "line" wires that span the length of the fence, and vertical "stay" wires woven through at regular intervals. The pattern of these intersections determines the size of the openings—a critical factor for goat containment.

Why Woven Wire Works for Goats

Several factors make woven wire particularly well-suited for goat fencing. First, it creates a continuous physical barrier rather than the psychological barrier of electric fencing. Goats are clever enough to test fences when the power goes out, and a purely electric fence becomes no fence at all during an outage. Woven wire keeps working regardless of power status.

Second, woven wire handles uneven terrain better than rigid panel systems. The flexibility in the wire mesh allows it to follow ground contours, which matters on most real-world properties. You can stretch woven wire across gullies, over rises, and around curves in ways that would require cutting and custom-fitting rigid panels.

Third, woven wire provides good predator resistance. A solid mesh fence discourages dogs and coyotes in ways that strand fencing cannot. While no fence is completely predator-proof, woven wire raises the difficulty level enough that most predators look for easier targets.

Finally, woven wire lasts. A properly installed woven wire fence will serve you for 15 to 20 years or longer, making the upfront investment worthwhile over time. The initial cost falls between cheap temporary solutions and expensive permanent ones—a middle ground that makes sense for most goat operations.

Choosing the Right Woven Wire

Not all woven wire works equally well for goats. The two specifications that matter most are wire gauge and opening size, and getting both right prevents the problems that plague poorly planned fences.

Wire gauge measures thickness, and in the confusing world of wire measurement, lower numbers mean thicker wire. Standard field fencing often comes in 12.5 gauge, which works adequately for light-duty applications. But goats push, rub, and lean on fences constantly, and this ongoing stress favors heavier wire. Eleven-gauge wire provides noticeably more strength and durability, while 9-gauge wire creates virtually indestructible fencing suitable for bucks and large herds.

Opening size determines whether goats can push their heads through the fence—a problem that ranges from annoying (when they eat your landscaping through the fence) to dangerous (when they get stuck). Goats are drawn to grass on the other side of any fence, and they'll work their heads through any opening large enough to fit. Once their horns get involved, extracting a stuck goat becomes an exercise in frustration.

Four-inch-by-four-inch openings prevent most goats from getting their heads through. Six-inch openings work for some adult goats but pose risks for kids and smaller breeds. Many manufacturers offer graduated spacing, with tighter openings at the bottom (where kids browse) and larger openings higher up. This pattern conserves material while protecting the animals most at risk.

For goats specifically, the best choices are either uniform four-inch-by-four-inch mesh or graduated spacing that starts at three inches at the bottom and increases toward the top. If you're keeping horned goats, err toward the smaller openings—horns create leverage that makes extraction more difficult and injury more likely.

Installation Fundamentals

A woven wire fence is only as good as its corner posts. This point cannot be overstated. The tension that keeps woven wire taut pulls constantly at every corner and every gate post. Inadequate corner bracing leads to leaning posts, sagging wire, and a fence that fails its primary purpose.

Corner posts should be at least six inches in diameter if using round posts, or standard four-by-four lumber as an absolute minimum. Set them 30 to 36 inches deep—below the frost line in cold climates—in concrete or very firmly tamped gravel. Each corner needs bracing to resist the pulling force of the tensioned wire.

The standard H-brace consists of your corner post, a second vertical post about eight feet away, and a horizontal brace between them. A diagonal wire runs from the top of the corner post to the bottom of the brace post, creating a triangular structure that resists the fence's pull. Double H-braces, with the structure repeated on both sides of the corner, provide even more strength for high-tension applications.

Line posts—the posts between corners—support the fence without bearing the tensioning load. T-posts work well for this purpose and cost less than wooden posts while being easier to install. Space them every eight to ten feet on flat ground, closer together on slopes or in areas where animals congregate and push against the fence. Drive T-posts until the anchor plate sits below ground level, with the bumps (the little ridges on the post) facing away from the fence.

When you're ready to attach the wire, unroll it along the outside of your posts, keeping the roll on the ground and walking it out to prevent tangles. Attach one end firmly to a corner post using fence staples for wooden posts or the appropriate clips for T-posts. Then stretch the wire to the opposite corner using a fence stretcher—a tool worth renting or buying for this job, as hand-stretching rarely achieves proper tension.

Proper tension means the wire is taut enough to not sag between posts but still has some give when pushed. Think firm, not guitar-string tight. Over-tensioned wire puts excessive stress on your corner posts and can break during temperature extremes when metal contracts.

The Critical Bottom Edge

Goats instinctively try to push under fences, and the bottom edge of your woven wire requires special attention. Keep the bottom wire within two to three inches of the ground—any higher, and goats will find or create gaps to squeeze through.

On uneven terrain, maintaining this close ground contact becomes challenging. You may need to stake the bottom wire to the ground in low spots, or add short sections of additional wire to fill gaps. Some installers bury the bottom four to six inches of fencing, which provides excellent security but makes future adjustments difficult.

If you're fencing a large area with significant terrain variation, plan your fence line to minimize the problem. Sometimes routing the fence ten feet to the left avoids a dip that would require extensive ground-level modifications. Walking your planned fence line before digging any posts saves considerable work.

Height Requirements

How tall your fence needs to be depends on what kind of goats you're keeping. The old rule of thumb says goats will jump anything they think they can clear and crawl under anything too short to stop them, leaving a narrow window of correct fence height.

Miniature breeds like Pygmies and Nigerian Dwarfs can be contained by four-foot fencing, though four and a half feet provides a better margin of safety. These smaller goats are less likely to attempt high jumps, though they're creative about finding other ways out.

Standard dairy breeds and meat goats like Boers need at least four and a half feet, with five feet being preferable. These larger animals have the physical capability to clear four-foot fencing if sufficiently motivated, and motivation comes in many forms—interesting things on the other side, animals in heat nearby, or simple boredom.

Bucks require the most robust fencing. A buck who smells a doe in heat will go through or over obstacles that would stop him any other time of year. Five feet is the minimum for buck containment, and many experienced goat keepers recommend five and a half to six feet. Adding an electric hot wire at the top provides psychological reinforcement for the physical barrier.

Adding Electric Wire

Woven wire and electric fencing complement each other well. The woven wire provides physical containment while the electric wire trains goats to stay back from the fence. This combination extends fence life (by preventing the rubbing and pushing that damages wire over time) and improves security (by creating both physical and psychological barriers).

The most common configuration adds a single electric wire along the top of the fence, offset several inches toward the goat side by insulators mounted on the posts. This placement catches goats who attempt to lean over or climb the fence. A second wire at goat nose height—roughly 18 to 24 inches from the ground—trains animals to stay back from the fence entirely.

For predator control, an electric wire at the bottom of the fence, also offset inward, discourages digging and crawling. Some keepers run both high and low wires, creating a comprehensive electric supplement to their physical fencing.

The electric components add relatively little cost to a fencing project—perhaps $50 to $100 for an energizer suitable for a small pasture, plus wire and insulators at 25 to 50 cents per foot of fence line. The improvement in fence performance justifies this modest additional investment.

Cost Considerations

Understanding what woven wire fencing actually costs helps you plan realistic budgets and make informed comparisons with alternatives.

The wire itself runs $1.50 to $3.00 per linear foot depending on gauge, height, and opening pattern. Heavier gauge and smaller openings cost more. For a 200-foot enclosure, expect to spend $300 to $600 on wire alone, with some extra for the inevitable waste and mistakes.

Posts represent a significant cost. T-posts run about $7 to $10 each, and a 200-foot enclosure needs roughly 25 of them at eight-foot spacing. Wooden corner posts cost $12 to $20 each for treated four-by-fours of appropriate length, plus the cost of concrete for setting them. Gate posts need the same robust treatment as corners.

Gates themselves vary widely in price, from $100 for a simple tube-frame gate to $300 or more for wide or decorative options. Don't forget hinges, latches, and hardware—goats are notorious for figuring out latches, so invest in truly goat-proof closures.

Adding everything up, a DIY 200-foot woven wire enclosure typically costs $900 to $1,400 for materials. Professional installation adds $3 to $5 per linear foot, potentially doubling the total cost. Whether professional installation makes sense depends on your comfort with the physical work, your available time, and your local labor costs.

Maintaining Your Fence

Woven wire fencing requires relatively little maintenance, but "relatively little" isn't the same as "none." Monthly walk-arounds catch small problems before they become big ones.

Look for leaning posts, which indicate either post failure or over-tensioning. Sagging sections between posts suggest the wire has stretched and needs re-tensioning. Holes or broken wires—from animal damage, fallen branches, or rust—require patching with matching wire. Ground gaps appear as soil shifts or erodes, requiring stakes or fill to restore security.

Vegetation control matters more than many people realize. Plants growing against the fence hold moisture against the wire, accelerating rust. Vines can pull fencing down over time. Heavy snow loads on fence-line vegetation can crush wire that survives fine by itself. Keeping a clear zone along both sides of your fence extends its useful life considerably.

Rust repair involves wire-brushing affected areas and applying rust-converting treatment. Small rust spots are normal and manageable; extensive rust indicates the galvanization has failed and that section of fence is approaching end-of-life.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The mistakes most people make with woven wire goat fencing stem from underestimating goat determination or trying to save money in the wrong places.

Using wire with openings too large is perhaps the most common error. Fencing that works fine for cattle or horses allows goats to stick their heads through constantly. Either they damage the fence, damage themselves, or simply treat the barrier as a slow-down rather than a stop. Start with four-inch maximum openings and you'll avoid this entire category of problems.

Skimping on corner bracing causes fences to sag within months. The corner system bears the full tension load of all the wire pulling against it, and corners that seem sturdy during installation can fail gradually under that continuous stress. Build corners to double the strength you think you need.

Installing fencing too low to the ground creates gaps that goats exploit immediately. They're opportunists, and any opening big enough to fit through becomes their preferred route. Keep that bottom wire close to the ground everywhere, adjusting your installation approach for terrain variations rather than accepting gaps.

Using wire that's too light invites damage from normal goat behavior. Rubbing, leaning, and general contact will deform lighter gauge wire over time. The stronger wire costs more upfront but outlasts cheaper alternatives by enough to justify the difference.

Finally, many people forget that gates are part of the fence. A great fence with a mediocre gate achieves mediocre results overall. Gates need the same height, the same mesh size, and better latches than you think necessary. Goats will test every closure system until they find one that opens.

FAQ: Woven Wire Goat Fencing

What is the best wire fence for goats? Woven wire fencing with 4"x4" or graduated spacing in 11-gauge or thicker wire is considered the best wire fence for goats. It provides security, durability, and value. Height should be at least 4 feet, preferably 4.5-5 feet.

How tall should woven wire fence be for goats? Woven wire fence for goats should be at least 4 feet (48 inches) tall for miniature breeds and 4.5-5 feet (54-60 inches) for standard breeds and bucks. Adding an electric hot wire on top provides extra security.

Can goats get their heads stuck in woven wire fence? Yes, goats can get heads stuck in woven wire with openings larger than 4"x4". Choose small-spacing wire or graduated patterns with tight bottom openings. Horned goats are especially prone to getting stuck.

How much does woven wire goat fencing cost? Woven wire fencing costs $1.50-$3 per linear foot for materials, or $4-$6 per foot installed professionally. A 200-foot enclosure typically costs $1,000-$1,200 for DIY installation including posts and gates.

How long does woven wire fencing last? Quality woven wire fencing lasts 15-20+ years with proper installation and maintenance. Galvanized wire resists rust better than bare wire. Regular inspections and prompt repairs extend fence life significantly.

Should I add electric wire to woven wire goat fence? Adding an electric hot wire is recommended but not required. It trains goats to respect the fence, deters predators, prevents leaning damage, and extends fence life. A single hot wire on top or offset at goat nose height works well.